On the Pakistan-India Border

Pakistani Soldiers march towards the gates of the border, Wagah, Pakistan 2022.

Everyday a theatrical set piece takes place between the swaggering armies of Pakistan and India as border gates between the two countries at are slammed shut for the night.

Performance with a purpose

It’s a performance with purpose: a ritualistic face-off, a presentation of power politics.

Once one people the two sides are divided as a consequence of internal divisions created during British colonialism. It is said that following separation Sir Cyril Radcliffe, who drew the line that delineates India and Pakistan, never spoke of the matter again and remained embittered towards the man who asked him to carry out the task – Lord Mountbatten – until his death.

Despite mutual antagonism the display itself is coordinated with an uncanny degree of cooperation.

Two stadiums built adjacent to the border gates gather audiences propionate in size to their respective populations. On the Pakistani side loud overbearingly patriotic music pumps from loudspeakers – droning out the lighter and joyful sounds from the Indian. Two slightly comic men encourage spectators to shout patriotic slogans: “Long live Pakistan, long live Pakistan!” Dressed in shades and shalwar kameez their act seems as shallow as their sloganeering. A man encourages crowd participation on the Pakistani side.

View from the Pakistan side looking towards India.

Swaggering Soldiers

The soldiers, selected by their staggering height for the spectacle, display no such buffoonery. Standing tall, proud and fearsome they strut and stamp out their warrior-ship like peacocks on steroids. Starting with a long-drawn-out vocal drone, two men from either side compete to see who can hold a single note the longest. Who would have though it? Two nuclear powers engaged in competitive tonal singing. Pakistan wins every time and the Serengeti-like standoff swings fully into action.